The Perfect Union

Sun Herald

Sunday September 9, 2007

Winsor Dobbin

The Rugby World Cup will mix the best of sport with the best of food. Winsor Dobbin offers a culinary guide to the the cities hosting the Wallabies.

OVERNIGHT: AUSTRALIA V JAPAN, LYONS

The Gerland Stadium, built in 1926 and refurbished for the 1998 World Cup football tournament is home to French football champions Lyon. Capacity: 43,051. How to get there: Metro Line B; buses 12E, 17, 32 and 96 from the city.

Where to eat: Known as France's culinary capital, the former Roman city of Lyons is home to hundreds of bouchons: small restaurants that specialise in local rhone wines and traditional cuisine. Daniel et Denise and Chez Hugon are among the most famous. If you want an upmarket spot, Paul Bocuse is one of France's leading chefs and serves sublime food just outside town at his l'Auberge du Pont de Collonges - at a price. Le Sud, his Mediterranean brasserie downtown, is much more affordable. Leon de Lyon and Restaurant Nicolas Le Bec are two other temples of gastronomy.

Where to drink: La Palais de la Biere offers over 300 different brews.

Where to stay: The Sofitel downtown is always reliable with the Globe et Cecil in the historic quarter an affordable choice.

SEPTEMBER 15: AUSTRALIA V WALES, CARDIFF

Millennium Stadium, which hosted the 1999 World Cup final, is one of the biggest and most modern stadiums in Britain and has a retractable roof. Capacity: 74,500. How to get there: The stadium is within walking distance of both Cardiff station and the downtown quarter.

Where to eat: A historic Welsh city with a beautiful castle, Cardiff is an attractive modern place with a much-improved food and wine culture. Brazz, at the Millennium Centre cultural complex in Cardiff Bay, is highly recommended, while Elements Champagne Bar and Restaurant has a top-quality wine list and great food. Choose a la carte or from a tasting menu. Scallops is well known for its seafood dishes, while Giovanni's is a serious Italian restaurant.

Where to drink: There are dozens of good pubs dotted around town with the Albert, popular with sports fans, and the City Arms among the most frequented.

Where to stay: The modern St David's Hotel and Spa on the waterfront is very good, while the Novotel caters for those on a budget.

SEPTEMBER 23: AUSTRALIA V FIJI, MONTPELLIER

The Mosson Stadium is a very modern arena that has been updated for the World Cup. It is home to second division football side Montpellier. Capacity: 32,900. How to get there: Tram line 1; buses 14, 15 and 25.

Where to eat: Montpellier is an extremely attractive small walled city of 100,000 in the Languedoc-Rousillon region, and surrounded by vineyards. It is dotted with cafes and restaurants. It's a lively uni town with plenty of budget options. Les Jardin des Sens, run by the Pourcel brothers, has two Michelin stars and always receives excellent reviews. Their second restaurant is the cheaper La Compagnie des Comptoirs. La Maison de Lozere serves hearty regional dishes.

Where to drink: Given the large student population, Montpellier has no shortage of watering holes. Try Le Corto or Fitzpatrick's Irish Pub.

Where to stay: Le Jardin des Sens has 14 rooms (the suite has a private swimming pool), while the Sofitel Antigone has comfortable rooms and a rooftop terrace.

SEPTEMBER 29: AUSTRALIA V CANADA, BORDEAUX

The Chaban-Delmas Stadium, formerly known as the Parc Lescure, opened in 1938 but was renovated in 1998. Home to leading football side FC Girondins de Bordeaux. Capacity: 34,327. How to get there: Tram line A; buses 9 and 11.

Where to eat: Bordeaux is one of the world's most famous wine regions, so dine among the vines at the superb Chateau Cordeillan-Bages, where chef Thierry Marx has established himself as one of France's top chefs. Great food and fabulous wines. Last time I dined there, Yves Saint Laurent was at a neighbouring table. In town, where some restaurants overlook the River Garonne, try the Le Chapon Fin or Cafe Gourmand. It's worth a daytrip to the wine village of Saint-Emilion, where you can dine in style at the Chateau Grand Barrail or the Hostellerie de Plaisance.

Where to drink: Bodega Bodega is a tapas bar with rugby links, while the Connemara is a friendly Irish pub.

Where to stay: The Burdigala is an elegant choice in town, while the Hauterive Saint-James, in the village of Bouliac, is oddly modern but boasts superb rooms and food.

QUARTER-FINALS: OCTOBER 6 OR 7, MARSEILLES

The Velodrome Stadium, home to the Olympique Marseille football team, hosts regular rugby and football internationals and the fans in this port city are known for their passion. Capacity: 60,000. How to get there: Metro line 2; buses 21, 22, 23 and 46.

Where to eat: Une Table au Sud is regarded as one of the best restaurants in town. La Garbure serves rich south-western dishes, while L'Epuisette, out of town, overlooks a fishing harbour and is atmospheric (and expensive).

Where to drink: Marseilles is a tough town with a range of drinking options. Try the Red Lion or the OM Cafe, but exercise caution late at night.

Where to stay: Le Petit Nice, which has a two-star restaurant, is situated in two old villas overlooking the Mediterranean. The Sofitel Vieux Port, as its name would suggests, overlooks the atmospheric old port.

SEMIFINALS/THIRD PLACE PLAY-OFF/FINAL: OCTOBER 13-14, 19-20, SAINT DENIS/PARIS

The Stade de France is the national stadium and has hosted major events, including the 1998 football World Cup final. The Parc des Princes, home of Paris Saint Germain, will host the third-place play-off.

Stade de France: Capacity: 80,000. How to get there: Rail lines B and D and Metro line 13. Parc de Princes: Capacity: 48,000. How to get there: Metro lines 9 and 10; buses 52, 22, 62 and 72.

Where to eat: Saint Denis, on the city fringes, is a culinary wasteland, so eat and drink in the city before or after the game.

If you are flush with cash, Pierre Gagnaire and Guy Savoy are two of the best restaurants in the world - but be prepared to pay for the privilege.

If you fancy hearty regional cooking try La Maison de l'Aubrac (open 24 hours). Au Pied du Cochon, Aux Lyonnais, Bistro de l'Olivier and Clos des Gourmets all serve good traditional French food. La Butte Chaillot, a Savoy offshoot, is a personal favourite. Avoid eating anywhere on the Champs-Elysees, as you will pay over the odds.

Where to drink: Juveniles wine bar, run by ebullient Scotsman Tim Johnston, is a great spot to try a range of regional wines in congenial company. The compact Willi's Wine Bar is highly recommended, as is the rough and ready Baron Rouge.

Where to stay: The Hotel Balzac is a brand new luxury hotel. Situated on rue Balzac in the golden triangle, guests will be at the centre of the action.

Hotels Maurice Hurand operates five affordable, elegant and welcoming Paris properties. My favourites include the stylish and central Artus Hotel on the left bank and The Terrass overlooking the city from Montmartre.

If cash is tight, then the L'Hotel de la Place des Vosges offers smallish, but clean and cheap rooms.

© 2007 Sun Herald

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